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Introduction

Clothing mediates identity and difference, and identities include race, ethnicity, class and gender. By consuming clothing, people’s identity and difference are shown. Designers such as Martin Margiela and Yohji Yamamoto, whose approaches can be aligned with the philosophy of Jacques Derrida’s deconstruction, design clothing which no longer abides by rules and is away from consumer culture . What these designers try to do is to destabilize the authority of fashion, which builds order, logic, symmetry and beauty. And the meaning behind deconstructive garments is to challenge existing social stereotype and class identities.And the way deconstructivism fashion designers blur the  line of individual identities is to undermine the time and space the fashion industry has created.

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In 2023 ss collection, I studied the way these deconstructivism designers’ design and apply them to express ‘identity ambiguity’ and ‘anonymity’.The material choice of plastics is inspired by one of the deconstructivism practitioners, Martin Margiela. In his 1989 spring collection, he left plastic bags on his garments and let his models walk on to the stage with plastic bags on, which to destabilize the authority of fashion glamour. 

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Accompanying this collection, three film stories have been shot. The concept of these three stories are to create an identity that can not be defined in race, ethnicity or class. The daily elements are distracted from the films, so the scene is close to the reality but is not true. The locations such as a night room, random streets and underwater could be related to different parts of the world, and that is the reason why I picked these locations. Many scenes relies on natural lights and torch light, so the effect of which is hard to control but seems more natural than planned lightning. Many trials have been made, so some scenes in the films are mere accidental.

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Story1 'Compression Bag' is inspired by photographer Paolo Roversi’s backstage video ‘paint with light’, and I shot one of my studio prototype at night, casting light on it with a torch light. Story2 'bleu' is inspired by an underwater scene in the movie ‘The piano’. In the film, I put a rhinestone brooch and a plastic prototype into the water and shot them with Nizo 4K in the darkness, casting light on the plastic with a torch light. Story3 '1pm' is capturing a girl wandering in the city, without knowing who she is or what she is doing. I try to capture day to day life in a different perspective. The accessory is one of my studio’s work.

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